belleelene

[The cover photo is credited to Mirto.]

In Greece, there’s a saying that goes, ‘If I don’t praise my house, it will fall on my head.’ Well, it’s time to heed that wisdom and share a –recently viral- hidden gem right next to my hometown: the captivating Lepida Gorge.

Lepida gorge is nestled in the Parnon Mountain (read more here), in the Arcadia region of the Peloponnese. “Lepida” translates to ‘blade,’ a name that aptly describes the tall waterfall’s powerful cascade, cutting a sharp path through the neighboring rocks. There are actually two waterfalls: one towering at 70 meters and another at 45 meters. These waterfalls are approximately 800 meters apart, following the course of the river. The first waterfall is located 3 kilometers from the village of Agios Ioannis. This is the one we are going to visit today. The second waterfall, known as “Melissi,” is 1.5 kilometers from the village of Platanos, on the road to Astros.  

To begin your journey to the first waterfall of Lepida Gorge, drive into the charming village of Agios Ioannis. As you continue along the road, you’ll soon encounter a small wood with pine trees. Look for a sign that signals a left turn, then follow the dirt road for a while. You reach a small plateau where you can park your vehicle safely. From there, proceed on foot along the dirt road until you hear the soothing murmur of flowing water. A word of caution: a considerable number of people make the mistake to visit the waterfalls during summer/autumn. Do not make this mistake, because the falls will be completely dry by that time. The optimal season is spring.

The source of these waterfalls emerges between Xirokampi (it literally means ‘dry valley’ which is completely accurate) and the revered Malevi Monastery (Malevos is the local name for Mt. Parnon). As the river courses through the gorge, it forms shallow pools along its journey. Interestingly, I’ve heard that this waterfall has also become a popular destination for canyoning and rappelling enthusiasts in recent times.

Nevertheless, on this particular occasion, I resisted the temptation to linger by the falls. If you turn left, you’ll come across a sign marking a different trail—a path that leads to the summit of Mount Parnon in approximately 6 hours. This trail, though initially rugged and challenging, soon becomes easier. Ascending, you’ll soon find yourself on a small plateau. During my last visit in the spring, the earth was adorned with a carpet of vibrant light-pink wildflowers. Scattered traces of human activity in this area highlight its role as a grazing ground for shepherds tending to their flocks of goats and sheep. As you continue your journey, with a general direction to the left, you’ll stumble upon another hidden sightseeing spot: the abandoned castle of Oria. Oria, meaning ‘beauty,’ is a quite popular name for castles in the region and may stem from a common legend. It is said that a fair lady met her tragic end falling from the castle’s walls, either succumbing to grief or as a solemn sacrifice.

This fortress was established on a rocky hill by Guillaume II de Villehardouin, the fourth prince of Achaea in Frankish Greece, during his reign from 1246 to 1278. Guillaume II also laid the foundations for Mystra’s castle in Lakonia, consolidating his rule over much of the Peloponnese. His power extended after subduing the ancient Greek tribe of Tsakones and the Slavic tribe of Melingoi. The reason he built this castle was actually to oversee the nearby Tsakonian villages of Sitaina and Kastanitsa. The fortress was located at a prime location, on the only road that used to connect Sparta to Argos, as well as the seaside. At the same time, its west side was protected by the waterfalls. Interestingly, the castle bore the official name ‘Estella’ during his time, signifying ‘star’ – a tradition still alive in the name of the nearby town, Astros.

For those with a penchant for rock climbing, consider scaling the hill leading to the castle. It presents a 20-meter steep ascent, revealing a few ruins at its peak. Alternatively, you can opt for a snack while relishing the unobstructed view stretching all the way to the sea. The locals affectionately refer to this spot as ‘Kafenes,’ which translates to ‘coffee shop,’ owing to its role as the preferred resting spot for villagers working in the area.

To return to Agios Ioannis from another route, follow a somewhat concealed path to your right. This trail will eventually lead you to Xirokampi and the Tarmiri junction, where the asphalt road reemerges. You have a couple of options for your journey back to the village: either trek the remaining kilometers on foot or arrange for a ride from someone in the area. Keep in mind that hitchhiking might not be a viable choice as this road sees relatively little traffic.

If you’re still in the mood for more exploration, consider paying a visit to Malevi Monastery, nestled within the only Syrian Juniper forest in Europe, a site protected under the Natura 2000 conservation program. The nearby villages of Agios Ioannis, Karyes, Platanos, and Ano Doliana are well worth exploring for their charm and local culture. However, if you’re yearning for some beach time, make your way to Paralio Astros or the cool water of Kryoneri beach.

If you want to check out the details of this approx. 7km hike, you can follow the route in alltrails. You can find all hiking posts under the tag hiking. If you liked this article, share it with your friends. Until next time!