belleelene

Let’s say you just moved to Athens, you’re felling a bit rusty, yet eager to give your legs a workout. The very first hike I did after I came back was the Agali gorge in Evia, just one and half hour away from Athens by car. Perfect for beginners, I invited my novice hiker friends along. If they successfully navigated the gorge, so can you!

Evia is technically an island, to be precise, the second largest in Greece, but it is accessible by land via a road bridge. The island derives its name from the naiad nymph Euboea, which literally means “good oxen,” which I assume were thick and well-fed. Unfortunately, Euboea was abducted and ravished by the sea god Poseidon. Occasionally, she is mistaken for her sister Chalkis, the eponymous heroine of the island’s capital. Euboea was also the sisters of other island nymphs, including Aegina and Salamis, all daughters of the river god Asopus.

Evia’s towering mountain range, Dirfys, is thought to have derived its name, possibly as a paraphrase of the highest peak, “Delphi.” In ancient times, Delphi held sacred significance as a worship site dedicated to Hera, the Queen of Heavens, believed to have married Zeus atop its summit. Legend tells of a mysterious herb, “lampidona,” within Dirfys, which emits a radiant glow only during the night, remaining elusive in daylight. Acquiring a “lampidona” is said to bring immense wealth, granting the possessor the extraordinary ability to turn everything they touch into gold. Another local legend surrounds the “dragonhouses,” wide stone structures attributed to mythical heroes like Hercules. The construction of these enchanted structures, shrouded in mystery, continues to intrigue modern archaeologists.

The Agali Gorge carves a 5km long and deep path into the western slopes of Dirfys. It can be traversed in two directions: hiking up or descending. Regardless of the chosen route, it’s a point-to-point journey, requiring transportation assistance for the return trip. Opting to begin from the top, you can follow the path just below Dirfys’ peak, starting at the wooden refuge at the location “Raches Tsergon”. The trail is initially paved and straightforward, with the possibility of encountering snow in late spring.

Soon, you’ll come across a circular stone bench at an elevation of around 900 meters. We took a break here, enjoying snacks while taking in the clear view of the sea. This section of the mountain is blanketed by a dense and flourishing pine forest. As you approach an elevation of about 730 meters, you’ll encounter the Kratia water spring, characterized by a stone structure surrounded by a colossal, ever-thirsty plane tree. The name of the spring could be derived from a word signifying ‘strong’ or the verb meaning ‘hold,’ possibly alluding to its capacity to retain a significant amount of water.

Water flows through the gorge at this level even during the spring. The next two springs are named Kryovrusi (Cold Spring) and Arkoudovrysi (Bear Spring). I can assure you, there are no bears on the island, though. There is a tree with a giant hole in it, so we spent an amazing amount of time taking pictures both inside and outside the tree. I also had the opportunity to showcase my marvelous dancing skills by slipping and falling at the spring’s water, resulting in a less graceful encounter with the stone pavement. Learn from my mistake – a picture can wait for a few seconds to ensure your bottom stays intact.

From this point forward, you will meet a couple of metal bridges, remnants of preservation work carried out in 2008. Keep an eye out for river tritons and salamanders; we were fortunate enough to spot a giant one.

Soon, you will exit the gorge and marvel at its towering walls looming above you. Various theories surround the origin of the name ‘Agali.’ It may be linked to the verb ‘agalliazo,’ signifying satisfaction, or the word for a hug. However, local villagers insist that the name is derived from the adverb ‘agali,’ meaning ‘slow,’ encouraging everyone to proceed cautiously and at a leisurely pace within the gorge.

The trail concludes at the entrance of the village of Agios Athanasios, near the local football field. The village boasts numerous springs, a rare sight in the typically dry Greek countryside. The path is clearly marked and well maintained. If you think this trail was too easy, you can hike back up the 732m elevation difference and get back to you vehicle.

Alternatively, given that there isn’t much to do in the area, the optimal plan is to arrange transportation and head to the nearby seaside resort of Nea Artaki for relaxation. En route, you can make a stop at the Dirfys mushroom farm to pick up some fresh mountain mushrooms. I treated myself to an assortment of fresh and dried mushrooms, an incredible mushroom soup mix, and a couple of herbal beverages that I consider to be magic potions. This is an ideal location to observe the Dirfys’ peak as well as the second tallest peak, Xerovouni.

If you’re interested in exploring the details of this hike, you can follow the route on AllTrails. Thanks to Trekking Evia for introducing this trail to me, as well as for providing some of the photos. You can read more hiking posts under the tag hiking. If you liked this article, share it with your friends. Do you have any hiking tips for the area? Add them in the comments. You can also follow this blog, follow me on Instagram or Facebook, to never miss a post. Until next time!

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