Hiking in Greece: The funnels of Mt Parnitha

The metropolis of Athens is surrounded by four mountains: Parnitha, Pentelicus, Hymettus, and Aigaleo. Out of these four, Mount Parnitha stands out as the only one that truly qualifies as a mountain rather than a hill (sic) due to its elevation well above 1000 meters. So, let’s explore two different routes across this magnificent mountain.

Mount Parnitha, also known as Mont Parnes if you want to fake a French accent, is the tallest peak in the Attica region, reaching a height of 1413 meters. It holds the distinction of being the only mountain in Greece so close to an urban center that is preserved as a national park within the NATURA network. The summit, known as Karavola, lies a mere 30 kilometers from the city center of Athens. The mountain has been suffering from summer wildfires for as long as I can remember myself, but its lush greenery remains resilient. Interestingly, much like the residents of Tokyo rediscovering the Okutama area, the people of Athens sought solace at Mount Parnitha during the isolation of the COVID era. Meanwhile, the citizens of the municipality of Acharnes, situated at the mountain’s base, have been training on home turf for ages, forming the renowned EOS Acharnon mountaineering association.

Mount Parnitha has served as a crucial checkpoint throughout ancient history, fortifying the northern side of the city of Athens due to its strategic location. In its many gorges, one can find ancient artifacts like the cave of the satyr wine-loving god Panas, or even endemic species like the red deer of Parnitha. Wolves have returned to roam the mountain range. Notably, there are two main gorges: Chouni and Goura. The name Chouni likely derives from the gorge’s funnel-like shape, reflecting its relatively short diameter. Today, we’ll explore Chouni, breaking it down into two parts: Chouni (Parking lot – Chouni – Flampouraki) and Small Chouni (Parking lot – Small Chouni – Sanatorium – Kyra).

1. Parking lot – Chouni – Flampouraki

Our starting point for both routes is the parking lot and the cable car station serving the Mont Parnes Casino. Now, here’s an interesting tidbit: if you’re a gambler, you can ascend to the top without breaking a sweat, courtesy of the cable car. However, if you’re a hiker, be prepared to lose you breath. Thankfully, the paths, although a bit crowded, are well marked with different colours denoting the many routes.

The path inside Chouni gorge is long and tiring. You may think it is over, but there’s always another twist and turn that takes you higher. One way to know that you’re almost out of the gorge, is when you start to get glimpses of the city. The casino buildings stand out on your right. Parnitha has been burnt many times by wildfires, but the worst was in 2007. At that time, Chouni gorge acted as barrier and kept the fire away from the rest of the precious mountain. Remnants of the fires are everywhere, still. The recent fires of 2021, 2022 and 2023 managed to burn the other side of the mountain, as you can see pretty clearly.

There are two refuges on the mountain: Flampouri and Mpafi. Flampouri is at the exit of Chouni and while it is tempting to rest a bit, try to move a bit further and reach the Flampouraki peak. The name means flag and at the edge it hosts a monument devoted to rangers. From there you can observe up-close the area of the former imperial palace of Tatoi and Thrakomakedones. You can see the fire destruction on the left side.

Returning back to the refuge, I recommend warm rakomelo shots and traditional sweets. Of course, the usual spaghetti Bolognese is always on the menu. Both refuges can be an option for remote work, because they have good cellular coverage. You can arrange someone to pick you up from here or hike back the same way you came. I do not recommend descending directly from Flampouraki, because the path is pretty steep and slippery.

2. Parking lot – Small Chouni – Sanatorium – Kyra

Small Chouni is the alternative name for the stream of Agia Triada, one of the numerous springs in Parnitha. This path is less popular than the main Chouni. The path is relatively clear and the ascent is steep. Large rocks are hovering above. At some point you are going to reach the end of the gorge and see the road. I couldn’t exactly spot the path at these last few meters, so I just climbed vertically the steep rocks. I would not recommend going back the same way, but instead aim to either turn right for the casino, or left for the abandoned sanatorium.

I chose the latter. The sanatorium of Parnitha is a site steeped in eerie legends and ghostly tales. Nestled amidst the scorched grounds left behind by the catastrophic fire of 2007, this abandoned building stands like a phantom on the top of Mount Parnitha. Apart from the uncomfortable feeling that always accompanies places of suffering (in this case of tuberculosis patients), it has also been – allegedly – part of satanic rituals in the 90s. In 2012, a Greek sculptor breathed new life into the burnt tree trunks found on the premises, calling the work “Park of the Souls,” so that the pain associated with this place finds expression once again. Although the abandoned sanatorium is derelict and possibly haunted, this does not stop young people from adding their graffiti or organizing techno parties there. Because it is accessible by car, a lot of people visit, causing dears to linger around the sanatorium in search of snacks.

Now, the hiking part has pretty much concluded already. You just follow the road, which gradually transitions into a dirt path, to reach either Pyrophylakio Kiras (1160m) or the antennas at Aeras (1126m). From Kira, you can wholeheartedly enjoy a clear 360° view of the entire capital. The pyramid-like peak of Mt Pentelicus, Pyrgari, stands out. The long mountain range of Mt Hymettus is also easy to distinguish. On the other side, you can see the untamed north-western flank of the mountain range, laying like a sea of peaks. Be sure to bring a windbreaker, since it tends to get really windy up there.

Making this route into a loop is a bit tricky. In my case, we had planned our hike so that half of us would hike up small Chouni and meet the rest of our group at the sanatorium, where they came by car. We walked all together to the viewpoint of Kyra, returned to the sanatorium and drove back to the casino parking lot. Of course, it would be wise to adjust this plan to your personal fitness level.

If you’re interested in exploring the details of this hike, you can follow the routes here and here on AllTrails. The amateur Parnitha blogspot is an excellent resource and a treasure trove of information if you can translate Greek. You can read more hiking posts under the tag hiking. If you liked this article, share it with your friends. Have you been to any mountain around Athens? Tell me in the comments. You can also follow this blog, follow me on Instagram or Facebook, to never miss a post. Until next time!

belleelene