belleelene

There are many peaks around Greece with names like Xerovouni (or Xero-whatever). Xero (pronounced ‘ksero’) means dry and barren. Who would have guessed—Greece is surprisingly barren! Today, we’re heading to the island of Evia, about an hour away from Athens, to conquer its very own Xerovouni peak.

The other day, we decided to venture on a hike in Evia. We chose Xerovouni specifically because my friend has recently taken up rock climbing, and the last 300 meters or so of the trail to the peak are considered easy scrambling.

Mount Dirfi and Xerovouni Peak are two significant mountainous features in the central part of the island of Evia (or Euboea), the second-largest island in Greece. Mount Dirfi (also spelled Dirfys) rises to an elevation of about 1,743 meters and is known for its conical shape, which has earned it the nickname ‘Mt. Fuji of the Aegean.’ In Euripides’ tragedy Heracles Mad, it is mentioned that the wild ‘wolf’ of Dirfi usurped the throne of Thebes when Heracles descended to Hades to bring back Cerberus. Upon his return, the mythical hero killed the invader, but in his madness, he unintentionally killed his own family as well. You can study more Greek Mythology 101 of Evia and Dirfi in my previous post about Agali Gorge.

Ξεροβούνι – Xerovouni (often spelled Xirovouni) is the second-highest peak in Evia, located west of Mount Dirfi. The tallest peak of Portaris rises to an elevation of around 1,453 meters. Compared to Dirfi, the terrain is more rugged and rocky, with steep cliffs and less forest cover. Numerous traditional hiking paths surround Dirfi. With the refuge as a base, one can undertake a two-day hike covering both mountains in the area.

The trail starting point is located on the side of the road close to Steni Dirfyos. We are on our way to reach a shorter peak at 1413 meters. It turns out that Xerovouni is anything but ‘dry.’ There are many springs and abundant vegetation with both evergreen and deciduous trees. However, during the summer months, the rocks along the ridge radiate heat, making the hike tiring. We walked under the thick forest shadow for a while, and soon the climb started to become alpine and the large rocks of the peak appeared in all their glory. We made a short stop at the Xerovouni Plateau, in order to capture some magnificent pictures with the large rock wall in the background.

Now, it’s time for the final rocky section before reaching the peak. We are following the red marks on the rocks to stay safe. A slippery scree covers the slope. From our vantage point, we observe a more experienced group receiving training, approaching from the right. Be extremely cautious to follow the trail at this point, otherwise, you might end in precarious circumstances. On the other side of Xerovouni, there is a long and steep slot canyon called the ‘Louki of Xerovouni’ or ‘Louki of Portaris,’ which requires significant climbing experience and equipment and is not safe for amateurs to attempt.

Finally, we reached the peak and began to follow the ridgeline. The sharp rocks made the route extremely rough, turning our walk into quite a strenuous effort. The landscape, as depicted in the photos above, is rocky and filled with sinkholes and vertical crevices. Particular caution is required when the weather is overcast and visibility is limited, as it’s easy to lose one’s sense of direction in this lunar-like terrain and find yourself walking in circles around a sinkhole. In winter, a small lake appears, evident from the grassy area that emerges in the hollow ground. However, the amazing view is more than rewarding. From the summit, we can enjoy a 360-degree view of both the interior sea of the Euboean Gulf and the Aegean Sea, along with its many islands. The weather is clear, the temperature is ideal and I am chatting with my best friends, while blue colors surround me. If happiness is not this moment, what is it then?

We returned from the same trail that we ascended. In order to replenish our energy levels, we sat for a meal in one of the nearby taverns at Steni. The air was cool and fresh and the food was great. A day well spent.

If you want to experience yourself this amazing adventure you can follow the trail Steni Dirfios -> Xirovouni peak Loop on alltrails. Be extremely wary about the scorching sun during the summer and the lack of potable water or shadow along the latter part of the trail. You can read more hiking posts under the tag hiking. Until next time!