belleelene

Sorry, it’s half past twelve and that silly word pun is still the only thing I can think of for this blog’s title. Tinos island is one of the most beloved destinations in Greece, and its name is a homophone of the possessive adjective “whose,” which makes the pun roughly translate to “Tinos, who are you?”

If we follow the thread of “Tinos einai i Tinos?” (Whose is Tinos?) we might – or might not – conclude that its first king arrived from Asia Minor and lent the island his name. Yet, the more captivating tale is that this is where Hercules killed the winged twins Zitis and Kalais, sons of the northern wind. With that in mind, it’s hardly surprising that the winds rarely fail to torment the island; people say Mykonos is the island of winds, and although I haven’t been, I struggle to imagine anything more relentless than Tinos—perhaps only Chicago? It was the first time in my life I truly understood the usefulness of headscarfs.

As with many things in my life, I’ve wandered through several islands of the Cyclades apart from the famous ones (blame my budget for this). When my friends from abroad decided to visit, I figured it was the perfect chance for all of us to discover something new. Tinos has a reputation as the island of sculptors, birthplace of some of Greece’s finest artistic talent. Instead of prioritising the beaches (which are somewhat unimpressive by Cycladic standards), it’s far more rewarding to explore the sculptor villages in the north. Look closely at the carvings above the doorways of the houses; some display recurring motifs, while others seem entirely original. It’s more like your family crest doubling as an air duct.

As I was unsure how to structure our short stay, I simply went with the flow. We stayed on the outskirts of Chora, the island’s main settlement. Normally this would be unwise due to overtourism. Yet compared to other places, Tinos’ Chora was surprisingly pleasant, filled with good restaurants and anchored by the island’s best bar. On the first day, we battled the waves at Agios Fokas beach, wandered around Chora, enjoyed cocktails at Koursaros bar, and ended the evening quietly at an apartment overlooking the sea—a place that once served as a pigeon house. The following day we were mesmerised by the life of Giannoulis Chalepas and the craft of marble sculpting in Pyrgos (follow the trail here), sipped an unforgettable coffee with a view in Ysternia, and concluded with sunset yoga at Agios Romanos beach (go listen to the song). Finally, we made sure to try the local beer; 7 Beaufort by Nissos Brewery, as well as local cheese, ham (louza) and artichokes.

What I missed: for anyone who loves climbing, the centre of the island hides a remarkable cluster of rock formations at Exomvourgo. People say the nearby village of Volax resembles an alien landscape, and I’m already planning to see it for myself next time.

Tinos is also home to the church of the Virgin Mary, one of the holiest sites in the country. No matter the season, you’ll likely see pilgrims moving on all fours from the port to the church. Technology has made the journey more bearable with mats to soften the pressure on their limbs, while local vendors generously support pilgrims with hats, water, and knee protectors.

What mistakes I made: Please, please, please, rent a car! Although distances seem – and are close, most of the roads are not suitable for pedestrians. Give some love to the southern side of the island. And to the stray cats, too!

Until next time!