GRAgs – the greek crags

I must warn you: hang around hikers long enough, and you’ll watch them morph into climbers. Every one of my friends followed the boot‑to‑route pipeline, and these past few months I finally gave in too. If you’re just a newbie, here are some top spots for sport climbing in southern Greece, that will not crush your soul.

Leonidio (arcadia)

One of the largest climbing areas in the world, Leonidio rivals Kalymnos as a winter sport‑climbing paradise, with well over 2,000 routes from very easy to elite grades. I’m lucky enough that my hometown is also in Kynouria, where Leonidio is, but nonetheless failed to even visit once until now. Climbing is still considered a weird hobby for the local residents. However, both the Greek and the international climbing community have been showing their love to the rocks for many years now. The best time to climb in Leonidio is from October to April, as the red rock turns too hot later in the summer.

Aresos – Be careful at the steep slope when approaching
Sabaton – A large area with a hidden canyon
Peri Iroon kai Tafon – Trad route

Manikia (evia)

Evia island is a fantastic playground for climbing games. Sea and mountain are within reach and the gorgeous canyon of Manikia takes the spotlight. The routes around here were opened mostly by French climbers some 20 years ago. We opted to stay at the camping ground of Dragonera Cliffs, which even offered a full breakfast (i.e. boiled eggs, fresh fruit and homemade cake) to take with us to the rocks.

All the universe – Multiple routes at easy levels
Sosimo Partidas – Trad route

varassova (aitoloakarnania)

If Leonidio and Kalymnos are the protagonists, then Varassova is the OG. Here started the modern Greek climbing history, with routes established in the 1950s and people visiting mostly from nearby Patras. Somewhere out there are grainy 1970s films of climbers on these rocks; my teacher showed them to us, and I’ve been trying to track them down online ever since (I failed miserably). With lots of long multi‑pitch routes above the sea and a more alpine feel, many Greek climbers still treat it as a rite of passage. Helpful note: Since Varassova is located in the west part of Greece, expect rain.

Kryoneri – Beginner-friendly multi-pitch routes
Varassova – Trad route

karathona (argolida)

Another magnificent location close to my hometown is at Karathona beach, near Nauplio. There, you can also join the wonderful people of Climb Ermionida and keep a note of the annual climbing festival.

Karathona / Katakekrimmeni – Tall rock faces next to a church built inside the rocks
Kato Kosmos (Underworld) – A tiny gorge protected by the scorching sun

Athens

My climbing teacher kept highlighting how lucky we are to have so many sport climbing locations accessible around us in Athens. He mentioned something like 56 different locations and 2000 routes in the immediate vicinity of the capital, if I am not mistaken. Among them, Mt. Parnitha and Mt. Ymittos take the lead. If you choose correctly, you’ll be able to climb comfortably all year round.

EPOS Fylis/Mikri Varassova – A little bit of everything
Zacharitsa – Small but quiet
Kokkini Pista – Loved one route called ‘Mistake’
Tourkovounia – Unmaintained
Merenda – Hard for beginners because the crux is low

Honourable mentions

It would be a shame not to mention the location of my first contact with sport climbing. If Taygetus is the best mountain in the world, it follows that Lagada is the best rock in the world. If you are lucky, you might meet my teacher George Malamas, who is regularly maintaining the routes around here. And remember, always year your helmet!