Hiking in Greece: Mt Taygetus

Standing at a balcony observing the north face of Mount Taygetus, I felt ancient whispers calling me to explore its rugged beauty. My companions were as gloomy as the weather, for the weather agency had predicted severe storm conditions for the weekend. I should have trusted the mountain gods; as always, they decided to take care of me and open up the skies.

Mt. Taygetus is, in fact, a mountain range that stretches above the plains of Sparta. Its highest peak, Profitis Elias, stands at an elevation of 2,405 m, making it the tallest in the Peloponnese. The mountain derives its name from Taygete, a nymph and one of the seven daughters of Atlas and Pleione. These daughters, collectively known as the Pleiades, are immortalized in the night sky. When you gaze towards the constellation of Taurus, you may discern a tight cluster of six stars – though in truth, there are seven. Yet, identifying Steropi proves challenging; she is the sole Pleiades sister who married a mortal, giving birth to the mischievous Sisyphus, the grandfather of Odysseus.

Taygete, adhering to her divine lineage, entered into a union (or, more likely, was raped by) Zeus, resulting in the birth of Lacedaemon, the eponymous hero of Sparta, and Eurotas, the local river god. According to Pindar, Taygete was initially reluctant to accept Zeus and sought assistance from Artemis. In response, Artemis transformed her into a doe adorned with golden horns. At some point, Hercules hunted down this form of Taygete during the labour of retrieving the Ceryneian hind.

To ascend to the summit of Mount Taygetus, it is advisable to stay overnight at the EOS Spartis refuge and commence the hike in the early morning. This approach, provided the weather is clear, allows you to witness the renowned Taygetus’ pyramid – I’ll delve into that later. For now, bear in mind that the refuge is small, welcoming, and offers wonderful spaghetti al bolognese along with local wine. To reach the refuge, you can either park your car at the termination of the asphalt road (close to Manganiari Spring) or, preferably, utilize an off-road vehicle. The trail from the refuge to the summit is a segment of the E4 international trail.

The wind was howling as we warmed up in the refuge. For a few hours, we weren’t sure if we would be able to ascend. We postponed our start time by two hours, hoping for the best. We began the hike just as the sun was peeking out from the east, casting everything in a red glow. Almost immediately, we emerged from the forest zone and treaded on the rocky path.

The peak of Mt. Taygetus has a distinct pyramid shape, giving rise to a couple of conspiracy theories. Some speculate it to be the creation of the Titans, others attribute it to aliens or supernatural forces, suggesting it was sculpted intentionally for religious purposes. It is regarded as a power spot where auric energies converge. In the early morning, just after sunrise, when the sun assumes a specific angle, its shadow is cast in a perfect triangular shape above the Messinian Gulf. I was too late to observe that; but I’ve already marvelled at its twin phenomenon, the pyramid of Mt. Fuji hovering above Shizuoka in Japan (read more here).

Along the path, you’ll come across several deep wells, posing a significant danger if one were to fall inside. For safety, they are visibly marked with tall poles. Interestingly, during the winter season, these wells become filled with snow, creating an ideal environment for winter hiking and climbing practice. Many mountaineering teams frequent this area for beginner training sessions.

At some point, you will arrive at the gateway to the peak, colloquially referred to as ‘portes.’ Here, you should turn left toward Profitis Ilias and ascend the extremely slippery acme of the pyramid. However, if you’re feeling adventurous and the weather permits, you can choose the right path on the descent. This trail will lead you to a memorial for Professor Liantinis, a Greek philologist who chose to meet his end on the mountain as a political and ethical statement. From here, the nearby peak of Xalasmeno Vouno (literally Broken Mountain) is also visible, if not covered by clouds.

At the summit, you will discover a small chapel dedicated to Prophet Elias, complete with all the necessary depictions of the saint and tools for religious ceremonies, such as weddings and baptisms. Despite lacking a roof, the stone walls remain intact. In Greece, most mountain peaks are named after prophet Elias and dedicated to him for protection. From this vantage point, you can enjoy panoramic views extending as far as the island of Crete.

To return to the refuge, simply retrace your steps along the same trail. With a full day ahead, consider exploring the Byzantine castle of Mystras and getting lunch at Pikoulianika. I stayed in Kastoreion, a charming village with a beautiful gorge, highly recommended for a brief visit. My local friends treated us to a traditional meal at the Meraki restaurant in the village of Palaiopanagia.

If you’re interested in exploring the details of this hike, you can follow the route on AllTrails. A special thanks to EOS Spartis and specifically Mr. Laganas for introducing me to this trail, and, more significantly, for their efforts in maintaining the refuge and volunteering for trail maintenance. You can read more hiking posts under the tag hiking. If you liked this article, share it with your friends. Do you have any hiking tips for the area? Add them in the comments. You can also follow this blog, follow me on Instagram or Facebook, to never miss a post. Until next time!