Hiking in Greece: Herode’s villa at Loukou and the ancient Thyrea

Approximately a 2-hours drive from Athens, lies the small town of Astros. It is a seaside resort, especially for Athenians and folks from nearby landlocked cities. This trend isn’t new; even back in the Hellenistic era, wealthy Athenians knew a good thing when they saw it. They’d escape here to build their summer retreats and relish in the pleasant climate. Now, let’s uncover yet another of the charms of my hometown!

Nestled at the foot of the Acropolis hill in Athens, the Herodium Odeon stands as one of Greece’s most atmospheric venues for musical concerts. The acoustics of the ancient theater are unparallel, especially under the glow of the full harvest moon. The theater has been in use for 2000 years now, and owes its name to the wealthy Greek aristocrat who built it, Herodes Atticus (AD 101-177). Not only was he a renowned Roman senator and a rhetoric teacher to the roman emperor Marcus Aurelius, but he was also a generous patron of the arts and philanthropist. Besides the Odeon, Herodes Atticus left his mark on Athens through grand projects like the Kallimarmaro Panathenaic Stadium and various other monumental constructions around Greece and Asia Minor. Additionally, he was a revered educator, counting Memnon the Ethiopian among his pupils and adopted sons, one of the few African-origin celebrities of the Roman era.

Our guy, Herodes, had an eye for beauty and the resources to back up his passion projects. One of his side-gigs was the creation of a summer retreat in Arcadia, a sanctuary far from the hustle of political intrigue and, perhaps, the occasional conspiracy. He setup camp at the small town of Eva, one of the three main settlements of the municipality of Thyrea, known for its historical significance as the site of the Battle of Thyrea. This battle, fought between the Spartans and the Argives in 546 BCE, resulted in a decisive victory for Sparta. Legend has it that instead of clashing their entire armies head-on, both sides chose 300 of their finest warriors. As the showdown reached its climax, only two Argives remained standing alongside one wounded Spartan. Viewing it as their triumph, the Argives withdrew, leaving the lone Spartan to claim victory as the sole survivor on the battlefield. Yet, being sole survivor of his battalion, he saw it as a shameful reflection on Spartan strength, choosing to take his own life to atone for this perceived failure. With his death not at the hands of an enemy sword, the Spartans declared victory. The defeat led to the establishment of Spartan dominance over the region and marked the decline of Argos as a major power in ancient Greece.

Anyway, Herode’s summer villa boasted exquisite mosaics depicting legendary figures like the Athenian king Theseus and the Amazon queen Penthesileia, alongside marble decorations of the utmost quality. Its interior was a marvel to behold, so much so that even Emperor Hadrian took notes, mimicking its design for his own villa in Tivoli, just outside of Rome. Beyond the living quarters, the villa included numerous chambers showcasing renowned sculptures, scrolls, and artistic masterpieces.

And what’s left of the villa, you ask? Well, it’s a cluster of partially excavated structures within a fenced enclosure, along with a failed attempt at constructing a roof that seemed more like a cash funnel for corrupt officials. Many of the marble stones from the villa were repurposed a few centuries ago to construct the nearby Christian Monastery of Loukou. The monastery is maintained by nuns and is generally open to the public, so you can enjoy some Hellenistic art while strolling around. The rest of the villa is still buried beneath layers of soil, likely to stay that way for the foreseeable future.

Herodes didn’t stop at just the villa; he also engineered an aqueduct to ensure it had a steady water supply. Remarkably, this aqueduct remains accessible to the public, just a stone’s throw away from the monastery. Follow it, and you’ll discover a path linking Herodes’ villa to the secluded village of Ellinikon. If you’re feeling adventurous, a stroll through Ellinikon may unveil the remnants of a Mycenaean-era cyclopean wall dating back to the BC era. Also, keep an eye out for the ruins of a shepherd’s house, constructed atop the remains of an earlier temple of Apollo.

If you are in the mood of an uphill but short hike, you can follow the path from Loukou to Hellinikon in wikiloc. Don’t forget the nearby Lepida gorge. You can read more hiking posts under the tag hiking. If you liked this article, share it with your friends. You can also follow this blog, follow me on Instagram or Facebook, to never miss a post. Until next time!