belleelene

Here we go again with the snow-capped Mt Taygetus. It is quite strange for a girl raised at the foot of Mt Parnon to be so overtly fixated on Taygetus; alas, we can blame my friends for that. The Argives might have won the ancient battle of Kynouria, but the Spartans have won my heart in the modern era.

Last month, a fall accident occurred during mountaineering training atop the ice-covered slopes of Taygetus. A year ago, I might have found myself in the exact same position during my own training. Thankfully, all hikers are well, though some will need time to recuperate.

This incident has reignited discussion around mountain rescue in Greece, and the conclusion is a familiar one: it is largely non-existent. Helicopters unable to operate in mountainous terrain, rescue teams unfamiliar with crampon use, and coordination that resembles little more than calling every available unit and hoping for the best. In the end, it is the certified mountain guides—who also serve as instructors at various mountaineering schools—who carry out search and recovery missions. State resources remain inefficient.

Despite this, the most recent government proposal is to introduce a pay-for-your-rescue scheme for cases where “inexperienced and/or under-equipped hikers operate amid severe weather.” But who decides what constitutes inexperience, or even bad weather, on terrain as unpredictable as winter mountains? We’ll see how that plan unfolds. Until then, prepare yourself properly and do not expect Alpine-style rescue in Greece.

In the meantime, enjoy these images from the pyramid peak of Taygetus, taken in March 2025. Consider it a sacred mountain, as all mountains are, and tread with caution.