belleelene

Were you aware that the Greek islands hold a treasure trove beyond bustling beaches and picture-perfect poolside moments for your Instagram feed? Join me today as we venture to Milos, the very island that witnessed the unearthing of the iconic Venus de Milo sculpture. But hold tight, because this time, we’re embarking on an invigorating hike. Bear with me, it’s gonna stink!

In May, I had the opportunity to spend a few days working from Milos. The weather was a bit chilly for swimming, so the natural alternative was to go on a hike. During my stay, I came across a local hiking group called the ‘Milos Friends of the Mountain and the Sea Association’ (you can find their link here, just ask for Mr. George), who graciously invited me to join them for their weekly hike. The day was sunny, a perfect setting for our exploration of the old sulfur mines. Milos Island, once a site of intense volcanic activity, has retained its prosperity since ancient times due to its abundant fossil reserves. The now-abandoned sulfur mines serve as a reminder of its thriving industrial development in the interwar period.

We met up with the fellow group members at Plaka and squeezed ourselves into a handful of cars to minimize the distance to the mines. If you’re keen on safeguarding your precious rental car, I’d strongly suggest parking it at the juncture where the asphalt road concludes and embarking on foot, tracing a parallel path to the dirt road. If you go by car, it wouldn’t be a hike after all. Watching from the window inside the car, I realized that Milos has an extensive expanse of agricultural land, a rarity amidst the Cyclades archipelago. My new companions told me we were going to stop the car at ‘that point with the tree’. I was like ‘how a single tree could be possibly a good marker?’. Turns out, there aren’t so many trees around, or anything else apart from rocks for that matter, so the tree was the single best marker. Nearby, a modest plaque commemorated the sacrifice of a handful of locals who met their fate while resisting the German Occupation in 1944. The landscape looked like that old windows screen with the green plain, but that was for only a second. Soon, yellow dust straight out of Blade runner started covering everything.

During the 1930s, the sulfur mines thrived, leaving behind a landscape dotted with buildings, tunnels, equipment, and structures—a testament to the substantial extraction of sulfur from coastal rocks. The tunnels served as extraction points, and a small train track facilitated the transportation of sulfur for processing and shipment. The dirt and the rocks glisten in all the colors of the rainbow, from orange and crimson to yellow and lime green. And the smell, oh the smell. Yes, you can find sulfur here, without a doubt, I can smell it.

However, the method’s economic viability waned as more affordable alternatives emerged, and sulfur could be produced as by-product of petroleum processing. Consequently, the mines ceased operations in 1978 and were eventually abandoned. Initially, a proposal aimed to repurpose the industrial complex into a state-sponsored open-air museum, capturing the interwar and post-war industrial advancements that unfolded in Greece. Sadly, these plans remained unrealized, and the land now rests under private ownership. These sulfur mines had the potential to become a counterpart to Nagasaki’s Gunkanjima, yet regrettably, the most likely destiny now seems to be transforming into a beachside resort.

Now, observe these caves nestled within the rock formations. They once served as the living quarters for the mine workers. While certain caves are in proximity to the main complex, others are situated at considerable distances. It’s difficult to fathom the daily routine of these laborers – waking each morning, descending the rocks without breaking a leg, grabbing a meager piece of bread, and toiling until nightfall. Over time, as working conditions improved, modest living spaces were built adjacent to the processing areas. However, even these were reserved for team leaders.

One can freely wander through the abandoned structures. Inside, you’ll find most of the equipment rusted and in disrepair, yet not long ago, it would have costed a fortune. I’m curious about the decision to let all of these pieces of machinery decay rather than sell them off. If you look towards the beach, you will see a quirky little bridge with two arches. It looks a bit like a miniature of the Nijūbashi bridge at the Imperial Palace in Tokyo. A rusty wagon used to move on top of it. Now this specific spot is the most popular location for wedding photos in Milos.

To the right, there is a path that leads to a branch of the tunnels. As you enter, you will notice a door and a metallic bedframe. Rumor has it that some eccentric traveler (‘certainly not a local,’ they insist) once called this space home. No local resident, they assert, would endure the stink. Calls have been made to remove the makeshift ‘apartment’ additions from the premises, but nothing has been done until now. You can follow the tunnel for a few meters, but after a while it soon gets dark, and rocks obstruct the path. However, it should be passable for a few meters more and eventually reach to the beach next door. However, a word of caution: there is a legend that that specific beach is haunted, because a couple of fishermen died there under mysterious circumstances. A second word of caution: apart from a fear of ghosts, you probably shouldn’t follow the tunnel, because there’s a risk of falling rocks, the temperatures can get too high and toxic gases are being emitted.  

After all that exciting exploring, there’s nothing quite as satisfying as a nice swim at the beach. As I mentioned, it was too chilly for me, but a few of our group dared to dive. I ate some nuts, played with the dogs and watched the ones who enjoyed the cool water.

If you want to check out the details of this hike, you can follow the route in alltrails or look into the official route info. You can search all hiking posts with the tag hiking. If you liked this article, share it with your friends. Do you have any hiking tips for the area? Add them in the comments. You can also follow this blog, follow me on Instagram or Facebook, to never miss a post. Until next time!

---