belleelene

Last time, I took you along my journey to Mt. Olympus and the Plateau of the Muses. But have you ever wondered what the actual peak looks like? My brother humorously refers to our country’s highest point as 👃💸 (“Myti,” which means “nose” in Greek, plus “Cash”)—oh such decadence.

Last year, I reached the plateau with my friends and we camped there. Unfortunately, due to the terrible morning winds, we couldn’t reach the top. A year later, I was well-prepared, both physically and mentally, so I figured it would be as good as it ever will be, circumstance-wise. This time, together with a new group of friends, we extended the hike to three days instead of two, to enjoy the mountain a bit more. We started from the same point: the Prionia refuge at 1100m altitude. On my way up, I bid farewell to the great Enipeas waterfall, knowing I wouldn’t return the same way and would miss the numbing coolness of its waters.

We continued through the shady beech forest to Agapitos (or Zolotas) refuge, spending the night at 2060m. The refuge offered comfortable bunk beds and a wide menu of food and drinks. However, due to a dry season, it was completely out of water, making the toilets and water basins unavailable. Yes, the dry toilets smelled as bad as you might imagine.

The next day, we hiked to the Plateau via the Zonaria trail. We always aim to start before the sunrise, in order to avoid the scorching sun as much as possible. This route was longer but easier, traversing the barren alpine landscape—a notable contrast to the E4 ‘Kofto’ shortcut trail. While I prefer the Kofto trail, it should be avoided if you have a fear of heights. Up to this point, the path was purely for hiking, but the final stretch to the peak of Mytikas required using our arms to climb a bit.

Mytikas is the highest peak of Olympus and the second highest in the Balkans, after Musala in Bulgaria. Recent measurements place its height at 2918m. Mytikas is also known as the abode of the gods, with Stefani, the second highest peak, being the throne of Zeus. Interestingly, Stefani means “crown,” fitting for the king of the Olympian gods. According to the myth, only Zeus resided at the peak and the gods would host their symposia there occasionally. The rest of the Olympians lived inside the ravines at the slopes of Olympus. Maybe this awe of the gods is what caused Mt Olympus to be climbed so late in history. It was conquered only in 1913, by Christos Kakalos, a local wild goat hunter and the Swiss Frédéric Boissonnat and Daniel Beau Bovi.

As a climbing challenge, Mytikas is among the most difficult peaks in Greece. There are several paths to the peak, with the most prominent being Louki of Mytikas, Louki of Stefani, and Kakoskala. “Louki” means gutter, referring to the narrow and long section carved into the rock that one must climb to reach the peak. Despite being longer, the Louki of Mytikas is easier to climb compared to Stefani, which is shorter but more technical. Kakoskala (Terrible Staircase) is one of the most dangerous climbing points due to its steep incline and the overwhelming sight of the altitude drop.

We had the privilege of climbing the last few meters to the peak under the guidance of Mr. Kostas Tsoukleidis, a legend in Greek mountain climbing. The climbing path is marked with bright colors, which you should follow carefully. The rock forms stairs and handles in many places, making it relatively easy to elevate yourself if you have a good fitness level. However, two main challenges arise. The sight of the deep gorge below can cause many to freeze, especially on the way down. Moreover, loose rocks might be kicked by people coming down, which is especially dangerous since falling with speed from a height is a no-no, according to Newtonian physics. Always wearing a helmet is crucial, and securing yourself with ropes is advisable.

When I reached the peak, everything inside me suddenly fell quiet, even my thoughts. Alone at the summit (because my friend John had timed it perfectly), I felt a sense of pure freedom. The prominence of Mytikas (and Stefani) gives it a unique charm often missing from other peaks. I could see the Muses Plateau, the forest of Mavrologkos, the steep slopes of Kazania (which means cauldron), and even spot some climbers approaching from Kakoskala. You can identify what is visible with Peak Visor. At the top, there is a plaque commemorating the first ascent and a visitor’s notebook where you can write your name. I didn’t touch the notebook, as this moment was meant for me alone to enjoy, not for the world to remember. I tried to absorb the view as much as possible before heading back down with my team.

Despite making great time on the ascent, the descent took longer. My friends were careful, slow, and some were afraid of the open view. When we returned to Zonaria, we hastily ran to Apostolidis refuge to celebrate with a few beers. We ate, rested, and later explored the plateau. At the base of the throne of Zeus, a “neck” forms with a great view into Kazania. I wanted to observe it because, despite its appearance, there is a trail through there as well. We then paid our respects at the tomb of the great pioneer Giosos Apostolidis, who strove immensely to make the mountain accessible and lost his life while climbing the Louki of Mytikas. He was the first to try establishing a mountain hut at the plateau and started preparing a water supply container.

Next, we headed towards the second refuge on the plateau, my personal favorite, Kakalos refuge. It is smaller and cozier but serves excellent rakomelo and trachanas. Between the two huts lies the peak of Profitis Ilias, which is accessible with an easy hike if you can’t make it to Mytikas. We timed it so we would be there in the evening to catch one of the most mesmerizing sunsets in the world. At the top, there is a small stone sanctuary dedicated to the namesake Prophet Elias, the protector of peaks and summits. From there, you get an unobstructed view of the throne, the plateau, and the entire deep mountain range of Pindus. You can also see Litohoro and Katerini by the seaside in the east. During sunset we noticed the pyramid shadow of Profitis Ilias peak forming over the plateau. If lucky, you might witness clouds climbing up the mountain slopes, forming a sea in the sky.

We spent the whole day exploring the plateau and slept at the refuge. The next morning, we began our descent, passing through Skourta peak. The mountain backdrop looks amazing from there. This trail towards Petrostrougka, through the lush forest, is one of the prettiest in the area. There’s a reason grabbing a cup of coffee on the balcony of Petrostrougka is described as enjoying the “best balcony in the Balkans.” We also met a couple of donkeys on their daily tour carrying provisions to the refuges, as no road can access there. After an easy hike down, we eventually reached Gkortsia, a few kilometers below Prionia, our starting point.

As a side note, when searching online for the term “Mytikas”, you may come across a coastal village on the western side of the prefecture of Etoloakarnania that bears the same name. It is named this way because of its protruding shape, since it is located on a pointed protrusion of land towards the Ionian Sea. The village is located in an area rich in vegetation and with beaches of blue-green waters, in case you are interested.

If you want to experience yourself this amazing adventure on the mountain of the gods, you can follow the following trails.

• Prionia ->Refuge A Spilios Agapitos
• Refuge A Spilios Agapitos ->Zonaria ->Refuge Yosos Apostolides
• Louki Mitika peak loop
• Refuge Yosos Apostolides ->Skourta->Refuge Petrostrougka->Gkortsia

Be extremely wary about the scorching sun and the lack of water or shadow along the trail. Thanks to Utopia adventures for keeping me company once more. You can read more hiking posts under the tag hiking. Until next time!