Hiking in Greece: The dragon lake of Tymfi

Today, I’m sharing my experience hiking in the Pindus Mountains and visiting the Dragon Lake of Tymfi. The view was so captivating that I decided to skip my backlog of hikes and jump straight to my most recent adventure. Let’s go catch a dragon!

The Pindus mountain range runs through Northern Greece in the Epirus region. Often called the “spine of Greece”—verify it on a map and you’ll see why—this area is one of the few in Greece that isn’t dry at all. The numerous rivers (Arachthos, Aoos, Voidomatis, Acherontas), dams, and lakes (Pamvotida, Hotkova) give it a unique atmosphere. Pindus is dotted with picturesque mountain villages known for their traditional stone architecture. A common founding myth of the villages in Epirus involves a shepherd and a goat: the shepherd notices a goat with water dripping from its beard, follows it, and finds the spring where the animal drinks. With such a valuable resource available, a village is built at the location. Since the water sources are plenty, there are also many mountain villages in Pindus. When someone visits Pindus, they visit for three things: Ipeirotiko klarino (a local genre of music), the local cheese, and the fresh air.

Papigko is one of the most picturesque and charming villages in Pindus, known for its well-preserved traditional stone houses, narrow cobblestone streets, and stunning views of the surrounding mountains. The village is divided into two parts: Megalo (Big) Papigko and Mikro (Small) Papigko. The village is nestled within the Vikos-Aoos National Park. A large rock massif called the Towers of Astraka forms a stunning background to the village. Astraka is one of the peaks of Mt Tymfi, reaching an altitude of 2,436 meters. It is said that its name means “roof” and was given precisely because it rises like a roof above the village. Some refer to the towers as ‘the Parthenon of nature’. The towers are visible from almost every corner of the village and the locals murmur that their shape seems to constantly change.

Papigko serves as a gateway to some of the best hiking trails in the Pindus Mountains. From here, you can embark on hikes to the Astraka Refuge, the Dragon Lake of Tymfi, and other scenic spots. Here’s how we did our hike, so you can plan your own route accordingly. We spent the night in Kleidonia village and woke up early to reach Mikro Papigko by 4 a.m. to start our ascent. Our goal was to avoid hiking under the scorching midday summer sun. The mountain path towards the Astraka Refuge begins in a forest, which quickly gives way to a barren alpine landscape with a few scattered shrubs.

The mountain is characterized by limestone and flysch rocks. Limestone, which dissolves in water, and flysch, a sequence of easily eroded rocks, contribute to the formation of sinkholes and caves due to chemical and mechanical erosion. Approximately 300 sinkholes have been discovered, most of which are vertically oriented. On the path, you will come across a sign pointing to the sinkhole of Provatina, which means “female sheep.” Situated between the second and third towers of Astraka, Provatina has a depth of 408 meters and a length of 40 meters. It was first descended by English soldiers using a motorized winch. At around 180 meters deep, there is a ledge with ice that never melts and a small room adorned with commemorative plaques from Greek and foreign expeditions. I am sure it should be a sight to behold to geologists.

And here’s the main course. Mt. Tymfi, standing at 2,497 meters, is a mountain in the Epirus region within the province of Zagori. Historically, Strabo mentioned it as a mountain near Paroraia, the area around Mount Mitsikeli, noting that the Arachthos River originates here. Strabo also referenced the Tymphaeans, one of the 14 tribes of the Epirotes. The massif of Tymfi is almost treeless and features steep northern and southwestern slopes. It rises between the Aoos River and its tributary, the Voidomatis, and has long been a favored area for the region’s nomadic livestock farmers. As a result, there’s little shade to protect hikers from the sun, apart from the kiosks at the four water springs along the road. These four water springs, called “vrises” in Greek, are Avragonia (1,015m), Antalki (1,200m), Trafos (1,525m), and Krouna.

After 4-5 hours of walking, you will reach the Astraka Refuge, sitting on the ridgeline. The shelter is located at 1,950 meters in the Radovoli area, in the neck formed between the peaks of Astraka and Lapatou. It was built in 1966 on the initiative of the E.O.S. of Ioannina and the Mountaineering Group of Papigko. You can either spend the night at the refuge or take a break and head straight to the Dragon Lake or Gamila Peak, the highest point of Mount Tymfi. Climbing routes have been established in the area since 1955, with most opened by Greek and Italian teams.

Northeast of the refuge, a plateau forms at an altitude of about 1,750 meters, named Lakka Tsoumanis after the stable of the Tsoumanis family located there. It’s a 20-minute walk from the refuge. Small lakes appear there, which typically dry up late in the summer. The largest lake is called Xeroloutsa. Many people use stones to leave messages visible from the Astraka shelter. Some messages are affectionate, like “A+M=Love,” while others are political in nature. Horses freely roam this area. Continuing across the plateau and to the left after about an hour’s walk, you will reach the famous Drakolimni (Dragon Lake) at an altitude of about 2,050 meters.

Scientifically, dragon lakes are considered glacial remnants, but according to tradition, they are often referred to as the dwellings of dragons. The origin of the name “dragon lake,” though improbable (but personally favored), suggests it may have derived from the mini dragons that inhabit its waters. The lizard-like newt Triturus alpestris species live in the lake and survive the winter by hibernating.

However, the most common myth about the lake goes like this: deep in the heart of the Pindus Mountains, nestled among rugged peaks and serene landscapes, lie two enchanting lakes. The Dragon Lake of Tymfi and the Dragon Lake of Smolika were once the homes of two formidable dragons, respectively. These mighty creatures, fueled by their fierce rivalry, would hurl massive stones at each other in fits of rage. This mythical battle is said to have left its mark on the shores of the lakes. The banks of the Dragon Lake of Smolika are now white, scattered with black stones, while the shores of the Dragon Lake of Tymfi are black, adorned with scattered white stones. Personally, though, when I visited, all I could see was grass; there were no black or white stones in sight.

After reaching the lake, we decided to climb a small hill on its side to get a better view from above. Much to our surprise, we realized that we were initially resting on a large block of flysch stone hanging above a precipitous drop. It’s definitely not the place to be for those with a fear of heights. Towards the northeast side, we could see the impressive gorge of the Aoos River, which separates Mt Tymfi from Mt Smolikas.

A few people choose to camp by the lake. However, I wouldn’t recommend it since it tends to disturb the natural ecosystem. Swimming in the lake is definitely not allowed if you want to protect the newts. You have the option to pay for accommodation at the Astraka refuge or camp for free on the plateau under Gamila peak. In our case, we rested for a bit and then returned to Papigko via the same path. Usually, going downhill is easy, but after already tackling 12 km of uphill hiking, the midday sun and heat were slowing our pace down.

The entire loop was 17 km long and took about 9.5 hours to complete, including breaks. When we reached Papigko, we drank a large amount of water from the springs and enjoyed some refreshments at the small cafes. Afterward, we headed back to Kleidonia and then directly to the banks of the Voidomatis River. On the other side of the stone bridge of Kleidonia, there is a small beach covered with white pebbles. The river water in mid-June was freezing, causing a tingling sensation as if a hundred tiny needles were piercing my skin. To acclimate to the cold, you have to go in and out of the water a few times. This refreshing dip was the perfect way to relax my body after a long hike. Combined with a yoga and stretching session led by the amazing Konstantina from Arka Yoga Center, my body felt rejuvenated. This gave me enough energy to talk and sing all night long at the nearby tavern.

For those who aren’t keen on long hikes, the area offers a couple of alternatives. Voidomatis River is great for beginner rafting as it’s relatively calm. Rafting allows you to work out your upper body while enjoying the stunning gorge views. Another option is a moderate walk around Aoos Gorge and the Monastery of Panagia Stomiou, which is suitable for all ages. If you can’t bear to be away from city life, you can always visit Ioannina and take a stroll around Lake Pamvotida. Fun fact: People from Ioannina are called Pagourades (water-bottlers) because, according to the legend, they attempted to rescue the moon when it fell into the lake by trying to scoop up the lake water with large bottles. Another, less altruistic version suggests they were trying to collect the lake’s magical moon water.

If you are in the mood to meet dragons, you can follow the path Drakolimni of Tymfi on alltrails. Be extremely wary about the scorching sun and the lack of water or shadow along the trail. Thanks to Utopia adventures for introducing this trail to me. You can read more hiking posts under the tag hiking. If you liked this article, share it with your friends. You can also follow this blog, and follow me on Instagram or Facebook, to never miss a post. Until next time!

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